
F.
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During my two week Untour to Tuscany in 2002, no one could have been more surprised than I to discover that I actually liked driving. This was shocking, given the fierce image of the Italian driver.
With the possible exception of the speed demons on the German autobahn, no European driver has a more wicked reputation than the Italian driver.
The reality that I experienced, however, is quite different: I would rather drive a week in Italy than ten minutes on the Schuylkill Expressway (nicknamed ‘sure-kill’) in my hometown of Philadelphia.
It is important to know that my sanguine impression of Italian drivers is based on virtually no city driving. We roamed all over the country hillsides of Tuscany for two weeks in our tiny compact car, a Dodo (the actual name for the make of the car), but by and large, I did no city driving in Italy.
I am not sure any sane American novice would attempt it. Untour staff are near geniuses at coaching Untourists on how to approach an Italian city: find the best outlying parking facility and enjoy it in the best manner possible; on foot.
Yes, the powerful Mercedes did tailgate me a little when my Dodo was insufficiently speedy while passing on a hill. But I did not begrudge them a moderate amount of muscle. After all, those drivers paid quite a lot of money for their vehicle, and lording it over a Dodo is modest pleasure to ask in return.
When I had to pass, I went as fast as I could and got out of the way as fast as I could (neither of which was very fast).
The reason I could cede the road so graciously is that, generally speaking, the Italians set a good example.
I drove in Italy for twelve days and was never honked at, never given a hand-gesture, and never even had lights flashed at me, all of which I merited several times over.
Italians merrily steered around me, hardly noticing my failings. In America, if I were driving behind someone as incompetent as I on Italian roads, I would positively be sitting on the horn.
My sense is that all in all, Italians don’t expect you to live up to lofty standards—on the roads and perhaps elsewhere as well. (I’ve not been here long enough to determine just how broad this blanket of tolerance is.)
Instead of the tight-fisted rush hour rage that we Americans are all too familiar with, there seems, instead, to be a warm, wry acceptance of their own flaws as well as those of their guests’.
In the face of folly, Italian drivers seem to give a good-natured shrug of the shoulders and get on with their business. One could have worse views of the world, either in or out of a car.
There is a simple method of achieving the right state of mind for driving in Italy. Before you start your car for the first time, sit in the driver's seat, hold the steering wheel and think the following:
I am the only driver on the road and mine is the only car.
It may be hard to believe, especially after you have seen Rome during the first week of July or Milan during the rush hour, but millions of Italian drivers believe it and so can you.
An Italian driver's reaction to any encounter with another vehicle is, first, stunned disbelief, then outrage.
You don't have a chance unless you can match this faith. It isn't enough to say you are the only driver or to think it -- you've got to believe it. Remember, your car is the car -- all others are aberrations in the divine scheme.
In Italy, as elsewhere, there are laws about streets, maximum permissible speeds, which side of the street you can drive on, and so forth. In Italy, however, these laws exist only as tests of character and self-esteem.
Stopping at a stop sign, for example, is prima facia evidence that the driver is, if male, a cuckold or, if female, frigid.![]()
Contrarily, driving through a stop sign is proof not that you are virile or fertile, but that you are a person of consequence.
This is why the Italian driver who gets a ticket gets red in the face, swears, wrings his hands and beats his forehead with his fists, and this is why people come out of nearby shops to snicker and point at him.
It isn't the fine, which is ridiculously low, nor the inconvenience -- for most offenses you simply pay the cop and he gives you a receipt -- but the implication that he is, after all, not quite important enough to drive the wrong way down a one-way street.
Remember, therefore, signs, laws and the commands of the traffic policemen are for the lowly and mean-spirited.
Every Italian's dearest desire is to be the exception to the rule -- any rule. The only place he can do it regularly is in his car.
The basic rule of driving in Italian cities is -- force your car as far as it will go into any opening in the traffic.
It is this rule which produces the famous Sicilian Four-Way Deadlock. Sharp study of this phenomenon suggests that the Deadlock or Degenerate can be broken if any one of the cars backs up.
That brings us to another important point about Italian driving. You can't back up. You can't because there is another car right behind you.
If you could back up, and did, you would become the object of ridicule, for backing up breaks the basic driving rule and suggests a want of spirit.
The impossibility of backing up accounts for some of the difficulty you will have in parking. Aside from the fact that there isn't anywhere to park, you will find that when you try to parallel park by stopping just beyond the vacant space and backing into it, you can't because that fellow is still right behind you, blowing his horn impatiently.
You point at the parking place, make gestures indicating that you only want to park. He blows his horn.
You can give up and drive on or you can get out and go back and try to get him to let you park. This can be done by shouting Personal Abuse in the window of his car. One of these things will happen:
1. He may stare straight ahead and go on blowing his horn (if this happens, you're whipped, for no foreigner can out-bluff an Italian driver).
2. He may shout Personal Abuse back at you.
3. He may, especially in southern cities like Naples and Palermo, where honor is all-important, get out of his car and kill you.
The parking problem created by the backing up problem creates the Right Lane Horror. At no time should you drive in the right lane. One reason is that Italians usually drive head-first into parking spaces.
Thus, every third or fourth parked car has its tail-end sticking out into traffic, making the right lane a narrow winding lane.
Unfortunately, the center lane has its hazards, too -- the right lane drivers swerving in and out of the center lane as they steer around the sterns of half-parked and double-parked cars.
Double-parked cars run one to a block north of Rome and two to a block south of Rome.
Italians double park only in four lane streets. In six lane streets they triple park. Right lane driving is further complicated by the Italian style of entering a side street by driving halfway into the first lane of traffic and then looking.
The way to deal with Lane-Swervers and Cross-Creepers is to blow your horn and accelerate around them.
If you make a careful in-lane stop when your lane is invaded, you not only expose your social and sexual inadequacies, but you may never get moving again, since you also mark yourself as a weakling whom anyone can challenge with impunity.